WHY For A-list service, a beautiful setting and elegant, thoughtfully prepared seafood. Splurge on the chilled seafood platter if you can afford it.

WHAT Although the Water Grill’s cooking no longer has foodies in New York buzzing, it’s still very, very good. Chef David LeFevre makes things like striped bass ceviche with mint, pineapple, candied black beans, butternut squash and achiote oil, or the slightly less complicated seared wild big-eye tuna with beluga lentils and pear-celery root purée. His talent with flavors, along with the high-quality ingredients, swank interior and excellent service, make the prices less painful than they otherwise might be.

WHO Downtown’s movers and shakers wearing good suits and carrying well-fed Platinum cards.