WHY It may be Chinese food designed for white people, but it’s still seriously tasty, and for many people, addictive.

WHAT Two simple rooms are permanently packed with regulars who have been coming here for 20 years and always order the same things: sweet-spicy slippery shrimp, hefty pan-fried dumplings, dried-fried string beans with pork, and cashew-rich cashew chicken. This is not diet food—it’s the sort of place you take Grandpa for his birthday, and he has to loosen his belt buckle afterwards.

WHO Always jammed with noisy tables of downtown businesspeople, Dodgers-bound friends and big family groups celebrating birthdays. Don’t come without a reservation.