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Royal Kabob

WHY For meticulously cooked tandoori specialties. WHAT It’s not until you take the first bite of flavor-packed free-range tandoori chicken that the virtues of this small, stylish restaurant emerge. Co-owner Tariq Amin, a graduate of ƒcole Hôtelière de Lausanne in Switzerland, knows how to cook and source superior stuff—his halal birds, for instance, come from [...]

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Maxmilian’s

WHY For evolved, lighter-than-you-expect Austro-Hungarian cuisine. WHAT At this pretty and secluded NoHo spot, everyone seems to know chef Laszlo Bossanyi, who for 20 years built a following with his Hungarian comfort food at shuttered Hortobagy in Studio City. He smokes his own lower-fat kolb‡sz (sausages), duck breast and salmon and makes such dishes as [...]

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Mumbai Ki Galliyon Se

WHY An unrivaled menu of Mumbai street food. WHAT Mumbai Ki Galliyon Se (literally ‘from the streets of Mumbai’) specializes in the street food of India’s largest city, a cosmopolitan menu of vegetarian curries, fritters, sandwiches and snacks. These are dishes you won’t find just anywhere: fried tapioca pearl patties, bowls of pulses and sprouted [...]

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Mutiara Food & Market

WHY An LAX-adjacent taste of Burmese and Malaysian cuisines. WHAT Owner Myo Aung honed his simple, satisfying Burmese cooking at Jasmine Market, and here, he’s added a number of Malaysian specialties. It’s all halal, with standouts like the crèpe-esque murtabak loaded with ground chicken, finely spiced lamb biryani and daging lembu, a Malaysian stew of [...]

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Jay Bharat

WHY Inexpensive and excellent Gujarati food. WHAT One of Little India’s top chat shops, Jay Bharat is a standard-bearer on Pioneer Boulevard. And though you can eat well sampling the sweets and snacks, don’t ignore the precise Gujarati cooking. Everything is vegetarian—appetizers like the potato-patty slider pav vada and the pettis, a six-piece plate of [...]

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JTYH Restaurant

EatLA-1641

WHY For the delicious thrill of expanding your pasta connoisseurship. WHAT The house specialties, three northern Chinese noodle styles, open a window onto the earliest forms of noodle: dao xiao mian, absorbent ribbon-like noodles that are cleaver-shaved from a stiff dough roll resembling a yule log; cat’s ears, little dumpling-like blobs; and dumpling knots, spaetzle-like [...]

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Magic Wok

WHY No-frills Filipino home cooking. WHAT Magic Wok prepares pork at its most glorious. Order the crispy pata, a bone-in leg of pork brined and fried until its skin is a crisp mahogany and its meat falls away simply because of gravity. Sisig, cubes of fatty, crunchy fried pork tossed with bits of ginger, scallions, [...]

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Gaja

WHY The South Bay’s preeminent specialist in okonomiyaki, a Japanese pub dish that straddles the line between savory pancake and omelet. WHAT There’s more to Gaja’s menu than just okonomiyaki, but all the izakaya-style small plates combined can’t topple the popularity of its various permutations of the pancake-like dish. You can cook for yourself on [...]

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Derrick’s Jamaican

WHY For Caribbean specialties that are a cut above the usual hole-in-the-wall fare. WHAT Yes, Derrick’s offers the traditional beef patties, oxtail and a mean jerk pork. But at this stylishly decorated spot there’s more emphasis on seafood, lean chicken and fresh veggies: marinated grilled shrimp flamed with barrel-aged Jamaican rum, spice-infused grilled rainbow trout [...]

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Bleecker Street

WHY Because there’s nothing like it in Tarzana: an upscale but casual spot serving the kind of food we like to eat. WHAT A couple of smart restaurateurs (they own 22 places around the country) opened Bleecker Street late in 2009, in affluent but restaurant-challenged Tarzana, and it took off like a rocket. The two-story, [...]

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