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Toko Rame

WHY A long-standing source of Indonesian excellence. WHAT The decades-old, family-run Toko Rame touches on what seems like every possible Indonesian entrée, from lightly charred satay and dishes constructed around the glutinous rice cake known as lontong to carefully executed curries and combination plates like nasi bungkus. There are more than 100 options (because Toko [...]

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La Parolaccia

WHY Charming plates of Italian classics. WHAT Though it’s not completely unique to Long Beach (there’s a Claremont branch), La Parolaccia is as entrenched in local stomachs as any of the city’s famous greasy spoons. The reason is clear: Its osteria-style cooking stands well above the nearby red-sauce joints. Consider trying the fluffy gnocchi, rich [...]

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La Concha

WHY Hunger-killing tortas ahogadas. WHAT An unassuming place crammed into a corner strip mall that often goes unnoticed on this busy block, this place covers all the expected Mexican bases— but the real reason to visit is the Guadalajaran specialties. La Concha’s torta ahogada is the best around: slabs of crusty bread stuffed with crisp [...]

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El Taco Loco No. 3

WHY An honest taqueria that capably handles the classics. WHAT El Taco Loco No. 3 earned its number as part of a loosely affiliated South Bay chain, though many share tenuous ties at best. This location is particularly true to the taqueria tradition: fresh-made tortillas, all the meat (offal and otherwise) that you could want [...]

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Otomisan

EatLA-1427

WHY When you’re in Boyle Heights but don’t want Mexican food. WHAT You’ll feel like you’re walking into the film L.A. Confidential when you pull open the screen door to this diner, which has just five stools and three leatherette booths. It’s a vestige of when Boyle Heights was a hub of Japanese immigrants, before [...]

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Pollos el Brasero

WHY Straightforward, tasty, very cheap Peruvian fire-roasted chicken served in a cheerful dive. WHAT We’re not as gaga for this chicken as some—it’s a wee bit bland, and it can get dry, depending on how long it’s been sitting around—but it has a wonderful, mahogany skin and a nice smokiness, and it’s a hell of [...]

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Itzik Hagadol Grill

EatLA-1407

WHY For the dazzlingly colorful appetizer of 20 Israeli salads, the homemade flatbread and the array of grilled things on skewers. WHAT Come hungry to this upscale shipudia (Israeli skewer house), because regardless of your intentions, you’ll eat too much. Pretty much every table orders the signature appetizer of 20 salads (carrots, eggplant, tabbouleh, mushrooms, [...]

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La Morenita Oaxaqueña

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WHY For the enormous, flopppy-crusted tlayuda con todo, Oaxaca’s answer to pizza, the red mole and the delicate, delicious Oaxacan-style empanadas filled with things like huitlacoche (a mushroom-like fungus) or flor de calabaza (zucchini flower)—or even chapulines (grasshoppers). WHAT The vibrant colors inside this strip-mall café hold the promise of equally vibrant cooking, and La [...]

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Beverly Soon Tofu House

EatLA-1394

WHY For the soon dubu jjigae, a spicy, garlicky stew of fresh tofu that bubbles like volcanic lava in its individual iron pot. The superheated dish cooks a raw egg that the server cracks in at your table. Seafood or bits of meat add extra flavor to the extravaganza. WHAT Rivals of this 25-year old [...]

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Sompun

WHY A long list of traditional noodle dishes infrequently seen outside Thai Town. WHAT In its hidden location, this simple spot has been surprising folks for more than 25 years with the quality of its food. Besides the excellent noodle dishes, you must try the swoon-worthy yet rarely seen ‘Indian’-style coconut curry and its northern [...]

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