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Otomisan

EatLA-1427

WHY When you’re in Boyle Heights but don’t want Mexican food. WHAT You’ll feel like you’re walking into the film L.A. Confidential when you pull open the screen door to this diner, which has just five stools and three leatherette booths. It’s a vestige of when Boyle Heights was a hub of Japanese immigrants, before [...]

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Pollos el Brasero

WHY Straightforward, tasty, very cheap Peruvian fire-roasted chicken served in a cheerful dive. WHAT We’re not as gaga for this chicken as some—it’s a wee bit bland, and it can get dry, depending on how long it’s been sitting around—but it has a wonderful, mahogany skin and a nice smokiness, and it’s a hell of [...]

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Itzik Hagadol Grill

EatLA-1407

WHY For the dazzlingly colorful appetizer of 20 Israeli salads, the homemade flatbread and the array of grilled things on skewers. WHAT Come hungry to this upscale shipudia (Israeli skewer house), because regardless of your intentions, you’ll eat too much. Pretty much every table orders the signature appetizer of 20 salads (carrots, eggplant, tabbouleh, mushrooms, [...]

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La Morenita Oaxaqueña

EatLA-1399

WHY For the enormous, flopppy-crusted tlayuda con todo, Oaxaca’s answer to pizza, the red mole and the delicate, delicious Oaxacan-style empanadas filled with things like huitlacoche (a mushroom-like fungus) or flor de calabaza (zucchini flower)—or even chapulines (grasshoppers). WHAT The vibrant colors inside this strip-mall café hold the promise of equally vibrant cooking, and La [...]

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Sompun

WHY A long list of traditional noodle dishes infrequently seen outside Thai Town. WHAT In its hidden location, this simple spot has been surprising folks for more than 25 years with the quality of its food. Besides the excellent noodle dishes, you must try the swoon-worthy yet rarely seen ‘Indian’-style coconut curry and its northern [...]

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Bua Siam

WHY Consistently excellent cooking that doesn’t pander to the sweet-craving American palate. Free delivery, too. WHAT It’s not just the array of tapas-sized plates that draws us to this stylish boxcar-size spot. Although who can argue with $2.99 appetizers that include skewered meatballs, crunchy rice cakes with Thai chile, the Thai spaghetti called knom jean [...]

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Beverly Soon Tofu House

EatLA-1394

WHY For the soon dubu jjigae, a spicy, garlicky stew of fresh tofu that bubbles like volcanic lava in its individual iron pot. The superheated dish cooks a raw egg that the server cracks in at your table. Seafood or bits of meat add extra flavor to the extravaganza. WHAT Rivals of this 25-year old [...]

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Rivera

EatLA-1391

WHY For the inventive (if pricey) cocktails, the suave Staples-convenient setting and some pretty wonderful flavors. WHAT We’re mixed about this swank South Park spot, where ’80s wünderchef John Sedlar has resurfaced—on the one hand, it’s a sophisticated space with a good bar and some very good cooking. On the other hand, the portions are [...]

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Local

EatLA-1383

WHY A good and indulgent breakfast served until the afternoon—but as befits Silver Lake, not served until 9 a.m. WHAT Local does justice to its name—the ingredients are local, the diners all know each other, and the staff is incredibly friendly. For breakfast, try the brioche french toast lathered in butter and powdered sugar; for [...]

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Haifa

EatLA-1384

WHY For kosher, Israeli-style Middle Eastern cooking that’s fresher, lighter and more flavorful than most. WHAT This storefront looks cheesy from the outside, but inside is a cheerful café with yellow walls, vintage French posters and granite café tables. Its Middle Eastern cooking is a bit different from the Lebanese norm: easier on the oil [...]

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