WHY Innovative creations from Ricardo Zarate, Food & Wine’s best New Los Angeles chef, 2011. WHAT The new descendant of Zarate’s ultra-modest Mo-Chica is a trend-setting cantina whose robata bar items look Japanese but taste Peruvian (skewered grilled scallops painted with aji amarillo pepper) and whose ceviche bar garnishes flash-marinated fish and sashimi-like tiradito with [...]
February 21, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Perhaps the most beautifully executed Salvadoran food in the city. WHAT The rich golden paint on this corner restaurant on a shabby stretch of Beverly lets you know that the place has ambitions, and boy, does it achieve its ambitions. Inside the even-more-colorful dining room, happy regulars attack plates of expertly made pupusas (try [...]
February 20, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY For earthy Lebanese classics with an edge of sophistication, served all day long. WHAT Some may remember owner Em Tony’s handiwork from the luxe Al Amir opposite LACMA, where she cooked in the ’80s. Now she reigns over a sparkling open kitchen in a big, buzzing space, where you can often watch her turning [...]
February 7, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Pizzas as good as Mozza’s, only less expensive and with less hoopla surrounding them. WHAT Bradford Kent is an obsessive fellow, prone to toss out dough that he feels isn’t just right, and refusing to serve a pizza that is the slightest bit overcooked. Given the tendency toward overly blackened crusts these days, that [...]
February 7, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Indonesian street food in its natural habitat. WHAT Set up in a parking lot behind a Duarte motel, Pondok Kaki Lima is one of L.A.’s brightest beacons of Indonesian cooking. The weekly food fair is a collection of a handful of vendors, most of which specialize in a single dish, even if they serve [...]
February 3, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY A wee, charming spot with good, affordable wines, cheeses and charcuterie—just the place to transition from the work day to the evening. WHAT The smart folks behind one of our favorite wine bars, Bacaro, run this 600-square-foot spot in the heart of Downtown. Where Bacaro’s focus is Italian, here it’s French, with good, affordable [...]
January 29, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY For the little-known Muslim fare of Xinjiang, China’s autonomous far western region. WHAT The food at this homey café, a mesh of Chinese elements and central Asian nomad cooking, likely bears little resemblance to anything you’ve eaten in L.A. Sure, Xinjiang lamb kebabs are well known, but owner Munire Omar brings out zhuafan, a [...]
January 27, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Better-than-you’d-think cooking in a no-frills café. WHAT Owner Robert Humphreys brings his classical training (at Patina and elsewhere) to his funky, everyday café, and the result is a gift for East Pasadenans. There’s good coffee in the morning, worthwhile and affordable wines and beers at night, and one of the best burgers in Pasadena. [...]
January 20, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Kogi goes stationary. WHAT The thing to get at this simple little café is the rice-bowl version of owner Roy Choi’s infamous short rib and spicy pork tacos, though the grains are somehow not as captivating as the Kogi Truck tortillas. But at these bargain prices, it’s still a fun-to-taste game. The prime rib [...]
January 3, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY A former textile factory transformed into a warehouse of authentic Italian cooking. WHAT Owner Antonio Pellini originally intended for Eatalian to be just a production facility for cheeses, gelati and baked goods. But the airy, industrial space is so big that a dining room was an easy addition. The restaurant veteran (he ran five [...]
January 2, 2012 | Posted in
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