It’s no secret that the taco is L.A.’s great cheap dish, often served at trucks, stands and street carts for as little as $1. So it may not seem like such a bargain when Loteria Grill offers 12 mini tacos for $14. But when you consider the depth and skill of Jimmy Shaw’s cooking — these are not your plain-jane carne asada tacos — $14 is a total steal. Each is a petite thing of beauty, and taken together they add up to a meal of complex and seductive flavors. Our personal favorites are the cochinita pibil, pork slow-roasted in a banana leave and topped with citrus-pickled red onion and a wee bit of habañero; the potato taco with roasted poblano pepers, onion, cilantro, queso fresco and salsa verde; and the chicken in a spicy sauce of pumpkin seeds and peanuts. But they’re all wonderful.

Loteria Grill, 6627 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.465.2500; and Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd St., Fairfax District, 323.930.2211, loteriagrill.com. B Sat.-Sun., L & D daily. Mexican. Full bar in Hollywood only. AE, MC, V. $$