One might assume, given the reputation of Paris’s famed Petrossian — and the general swankness implied with any place that specializes in caviar and Champagne — that it takes mighty deep pockets to eat at the recently overhauled Petrossian Boutique & Café in West Hollywood. And yet EAT: LA’s Amelia Saltsman recently stopped by for an early supper and found quite the contrary to be true.

This chic, light-filled café turns out to have a terrific happy hour, which is, in fact, happy five hours: It runs from 3 to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Daily wine and beer specials are $5 a glass, and a glass of Hibiscus Champagne runs $8. To eat are such $5 apps as eggplant bruschetta, the suave pâté du jour served with fresh toast points, house-made sausage, a bowl of excellent olives, pickles and cornichons, and a bread basket with homemade truffle butter. For $10 you can get smoked salmon or the pizza of the day.

If you want caviar, however, you’ll have to come up with a lot more than a five spot.

Petrossian, 321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.271.0576, petrossian.com. L & D Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Beer & wine. AE, MC, V.