WHY For the enormous, flopppy-crusted tlayuda con todo, Oaxaca’s answer to pizza, the red mole and the delicate, delicious Oaxacan-style empanadas filled with things like huitlacoche (a mushroom-like fungus) or flor de calabaza (zucchini flower)-or even chapulines (grasshoppers). WHAT The vibrant colors inside this strip-mall café on the edge of Koreatown hold the promise of [...]
September 5, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY A near-perfect pairing of yakitori and oden. WHAT Torihei splits its kitchen equally between yakitori and oden, a relatively rare but harmonious coupling. The yakitori is made from tender, flavorful Jidori chicken. Oden is the more unusual of the specialties, a homey dish that’s typically prepared as a one-pot stew. Here, however, items are [...]
September 3, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY Superb salads (try the Humble Salad, a romaine wedge with bacon, goat cheese and roma tomatoes, or the ‘The’ salad, said to induce labor in pregnant women) and Caioti’s rightly famed individual pizza; don’t forget to order some garlic rolls, too. WHAT Ed LaDou may have shuffled off this mortal coil, but the California [...]
September 2, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY Succulent, irresistible roast pork and Cuban-style roast chicken, and (when it’s available) amazing oxtail, too. WHAT A no-frills, inexpensive L.A. landmark beloved for its garlicky marinated roast chicken, juicy, salty Cuban roast pork, plantains, black beans and rice. Branches on south La Cienega and in Encino and Manhattan Beach. 10319 Venice Blvd., Culver City, [...]
September 1, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY Tasty, inexpensive Brazilian sandwiches, grilled meats, collard greens, black beans and feijoada, the famed pork stew. WHAT It’s a simple order-at-the-counter, paper-napkin café but an exceptionally charming and colorful one, with a greenery-lined sidewalk terrace and an intensely colorful dining room. There’s beer and wine, but don’t neglect the fresh mango juice or the [...]
September 1, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY Pure, unadulterated Peruvian flavors (puro sabor means ‘pure flavor’) in a sweet Valley spot with modest prices. WHAT This isn’t the most scenic neighborhood in Van Nuys, but inside is a cheerful, spotless café that showcases the accomplished cooking of chef Juana Paz, a bank teller from Peru who succeeded in achieving her twin [...]
September 1, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY Just because you enjoy retail therapy on 3rd Street doesn’t mean you want to spend $30 for lunch. And sometimes you want a great taco. WHAT Pete White paid his dues (25 years!) at Poquito Mas, and at his solo venture he uses farmers’ market produce and top-quality seafood and meat to produce some [...]
September 1, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY Housemade Sicilian bread, either to take home or to have the deli make into a chicken-parmesan or sausage sandwich, as well as good pizzas, lasagnes and Italian prepared dishes. WHAT Fabulous Sicilian bread and rolls are baked on the premises at this 40-year-old family business, where the deli cases are amply stocked with house-made [...]
September 1, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY Unusual and very good pizza made with a cornmeal crust that’s almost like a good hush puppy, crunching with each bite. Try the one with pancetta and red onions. WHAT A tiny, cheerful café flagged with market umbrellas and small outdoor tables, serving unusual and delicious pizza by the slice or whole, to eat [...]
September 1, 2010 | Posted in
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WHY Baby-back ribs to dream about: smoky, succulent, with a nice char and light crust, and they take out beautifully. Excellent brisket, too. WHAT Zeke’s is a multi-denominational shrine to the art of the barbecue, with chefs channeling some of the country’s most renowned pit masters and turning out Kansas City, Memphis, North Carolina and [...]
September 1, 2010 | Posted in
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