Most turkey burgers are generic things, coming out of the mass-produced, Foster Farms operation, making a person wonder if they really are a more responsible choice than beef burgers.

But when they’re done right, a turkey burger is a beautiful thing — not just lower in fat and less environmentally bad than beef burgers, but deeply delicious. It hasn’t been easy to find really good ones, but we have, and here they are, roughly moving west to east:

Tavern's turkey burger and onion rings

Tavern
This handsome new spot used to be a Hamburger Hamlet, so it’s good to see that Suzanne Goin gives burgers their due. The thick, generous bird burger here is fantastic, a custom-ground blend of white and dark meat turkey given extra flavor and juiciness with a dollop of tomato confit added to the mix. Add a toasted brioche bun, first-rate lettuce, tomato and pickles, and fat, light, tempura-like onion rings, and you’ve entered the turkey burger hall of fame. Although you do have to pay $16 for the privilege.
11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464, tavernla.com. B Mon.-Fri., lunch & dinner daily, brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar. AE, MC, V. $$$ – $$$$

Hole in the Wall Burger Joint
Bill Dertouzos’s place is indeed a burger joint, but he takes far more care with his burgers than just any old joint. The turkey burgers ($7.95) are hefty (eight ounces) and ground here. You choose the bun — yes, the pretzel bun is worth it — and the toppings, which might include a chipotle mayo, provolone, red-leaf lettuce  and sautéed mushrooms. Or not.
11058 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A.. 310.312.7013, holeinthewallburgerjoint.com. American/burgers. L & D Mon.-Sat (until 8 p.m.; to 6 p.m Sat.). BYOB. MC, V. $

Akasha
They call their organic turkey burger “spiked,” and indeed it is not a bland slab of ground poultry. This hearty $14 burger is built around a patty given flavor and moistness with a mince of red bell pepper, green olives, jalapeño and onion, then topped with organic cheddar or swiss and a house-made pickle. It’s one of the best in town.
9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.845.1700, akasharestaurant.com. L Mon.-Fri., D nightly. Full bar. AE, MC, V. $$$ – $$$$

Rush Street
This large and lively gastropub with Chicago roots serves a $12 turkey burger that’s robust, generous and flavorful, imbued with mesquite smoke and topped with a veritable farmers’ market stand: avocado, pickled red onion, arugula, pepper jack and a chipotle-cranberry sour cream. Come before 7 p.m. for happy hour and you can wash it down with a Black Butte Porter for just $5.
9546 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.837.9546, rushstreetculvercity.com. L & D daily (happy hour 3–7 p.m.; late-night menu Thurs.–Sat. until 1 a.m.). American/gastropub. Full bar. AE, MC, V. $ – $$

Umami's deconstructed turkey burger, aka turkey rillettes

Umami Burger
For better or worse, Umami keeps changing its turkey burger. The turkey confit burger was a winner, but it was replaced by a miso-marinated one, which in turn was just replaced with a “Latin” one. Given a guava glaze and double toppings — a carrot-cucumber slaw and avocado salsa — it is tasty, with a good shot of that umami savoriness, but we miss the simpler turkey confit burger. Ah well, there’s always the beef Umami burger, which never changes. And the sweet potato fries, the perfect balance of sweet and salty. Turkey lovers, take note of a fantastic seasonal special: turkey rilletttes with toasted bread, a cranberry relish and a green salad.
850 S. La Brea Ave., Miracle Mile, 323.931.3000, umamiburger.com.. L & D daily. BYOB. MC, V. $ – $$
4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, no phone. L & D daily. Beer & wine. MC, V. $

The Fix
This friendly little storefront café serves the comfort of a well-made burger with the satisfaction of virtuosity — the meats are certified humane and free of hormones and antibiotics, and the containers and utensils are biodegradable. As for the turkey burger, the patties are made here from quality turkey, and they’re simple (mayo, lettuce, red onion, tomato on a wheat bun), inexpensive ($6.99) and very good. If you want to explore beyond turkey, there are buffalo, ostrich and veggie burgers, plus lots of specialty beef ones.
2520 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.661.8494, thefixburger.com. L & D Mon.-Sat. BYOB. $

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