WHY A top contender for L.A.’s best fish tacos. WHAT Still called by its former name, Tacos Baja Ensenada, this stylish lime-green former burger stand turns out seemingly weightless battered fish tacos whose textural contrasts of crunchy cabbage, crackly battered, moist fish and tart, rich crema are an epiphany. A tiny ceviche bar serves blends [...]
May 5, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Superb New York—style pizza, by the slice or the pie. WHAT Is this the best New York—style pizza in town? Many think so, and it’s certainly on our very short list. There’s no seating, just a stand-up counter with room for two to eat a slice or wait for a pie; Cheviot/Palms locals get [...]
April 1, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY On a coolish day there’s nothing better than a big bowl of Jinya’s aromatic tonkotsu ramen, laden with toothsome noodles and sliced pork belly. WHAT A Jonathan Gold rave put this ramen house on the foodie map, despite its location in a dark corner of a Studio City strip mall next to Marshall’s. The [...]
March 21, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Al pastor tacos at midnight. WHAT All the meats that go into the tacos and burritos are good, but the real reason the people line up every night is for the pork al pastor, among the best in taco-truck land. WHO Mexican families and the young and restless, stopping in between clubbing and bar-hopping. [...]
March 18, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Indonesian street food in its natural habitat. WHAT Set up in a parking lot behind a Duarte motel, Pondok Kaki Lima is one of L.A.’s brightest beacons of Indonesian cooking. The weekly food fair is a collection of a handful of vendors, most of which specialize in a single dish, even if they serve [...]
February 3, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Mexican dishes with a jolt of traditional flavors in a casual, eco-friendly storefront café. WHAT Tinga’s owners were inspired by Santa Barbara’s deceptively casual La Super Rica. Their thick corn tortillas also have a house-made heft, with cochinita pibil pork tacos as spicy as advertised. Taco plates, quesadillas, burritos and tortas made with steak, [...]
January 25, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Serious dogs served on grilled King’s Hawaiian bread. WHAT These are solid, substantial hot dogs, often topped with bacon and/or chili. Skip the heavy, bland El Mariachi, but consider the BLAST dog, with bacon, lettuce, avocado, tomato and serrano chili, and by all means try the tater tots. The addition of a beer garden [...]
January 12, 2012 | Posted in
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WHY Berlin’s favorite street snack pops up at Sunset Junction, with a simple menu of saucy sausages and killer fries. WHAT Choose from pork, beef, chicken or tofu all-natural sausages and select a heat level of sauce. After they’re grilled and sliced, the sausages are topped with an organic curry-flavored tomato sauce; you can add [...]
December 24, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY Small, juicy hot dogs, just like the New York original. WHAT Pink’s has competition in the line-up-for-hot-dogs department with the arrival of this New York hot dog icon, which draws huge crowds at night. Pass on the beefier but soggier jumbo dog in favor of the small, juicy, peppery original. The curly fries are [...]
November 25, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY Because there’s so much more to the Mexican sandwich than carne asada—filled rolls. WHAT Seventy variations of the DF-style torta is an idea that might seem as gimmicky as popcorn-flavored ice cream. But each torta here is as precisely constructed as anything from a four-star kitchen. Choosing the best one is impossible, but the [...]
November 7, 2011 | Posted in
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